TURTLE TALES:
Exodus in a Tin Can on Wheels
By
Arachne
-Part 1-
(Part
2 - Part 3 - Epilogue)
Over four months in 2002, arachne and TaoUrso traveled west across
the United States in a 32-foot, pre-owned 1987 Fleetwood Pace Arrow
motorhome. This is arachne's story, for better or worse. TaoUrso
July 3, 2002 -- Okay, here it is - the first diary of the rest
of my life.
TaoUrso retired [from teaching high school] a week ago. We left
Brooklyn Friday [June 28] after packing the U-Haul. I wish I could
say I'm writing this sitting at a picnic table, under my awning,
at a nice RV park. But this is not the case. Instead, I'm sitting
in a bedroom at my grandmother's house in Enfield, Connecticut,
not far from Long View RV [in Windsor Locks], where our 1987 Pace
Arrow is still under repair. Remember the $4000. we spent to fix
up the RV - the generator, the engine A/C, the satellite hookup
and a bunch of other stuff? Apparently, none of that was done, even
though we were promised many times over that it had been. Worse
still, the tow-dolly that we'd spent another $2200 for is gone -
either stolen or lost. So we've been shlepping between the RV, the
rental lot, and the service area each day while repairs are done.
The rental service has been good enough to let us use their hookups,
so at least we have water and electricity. This morning we learned
that a new tow-dolly won't be in till July 12 at the earliest. So
we're stuck here for a while.
Third day of a major heat wave, humid skies w/temps in the 90s
and no sign of letting up. Enfield is wall-to-wall shopping malls,
fast food and occasional stretches of farmland. A few small churches,
but no synagogues as far as the eye can see. In my search to find
a particular book, we pulled in at an innocuous little shop on US
Route 5 called "Bookends." But when I got to the entrance
(in the rear of the building), it was obvious from the signs posted
that this was an "adult" bookstore. No luck there. Across
the road is "The Edge", a tattoo/body-piercing shop I
already knew of. Further down Rte. 5, I spotted another store that
sold "Deadhead" paraphernalia (the sort you'd find every
other block in a certain area of San Francisco.) Altogether, it
got me to speculating just what sort of hippie/porn/fetish underground
would inhabit this corner of God's own earth.
July 8 -- Am writing from Highland Orchards [RV park] in North
Stonington, CT. Got here from Long View this afternoon. Some repairs
were made since last entry - notably the engine A/C - but a lot
more needs to be done. The guys at Long View are waiting for delivery
of parts and a new tow-dolly, but won't expect them for a few more
days. TaoUrso decided he'd rather come here than wait in Long View's
parking lot. No TV tonight - TaoUrso lost battery power this morning
and lost the satellite programming. Did have it working over the
weekend though. Onyx [the cat] is glad to be home. We kept him in
Grandma's basement all last week. But his poo still isn't right.
Stopped at [my brother] Steve's house on the way down here today.
Left my tricycle there for his son. We decided we can't take it
with us, too hard to carry. At least I know it will get some use.
July 9 -- Well, we now have our dish satellite working. Had to
move to another spot in the RV park for an extra $3.50/night. Something
to keep in mind for the future: Under a tree, there's no TV. Poo!
Speaking of which, Onyx' poo is still as runny as ever. Am at a
loss for what to do. Probably should see a vet, but that's not so
easy round here.
July 12 -- Took Onyx to a vet near here yesterday. She had a hard
time getting blood from him, I'm afraid, but she thought there was
enough for a thyroid test. Now we're giving him some special food
and pills to fix up his poo. Hasn't worked yet. Wednesday [7/10]
we went to the Mashantucket Pequot museum in Ledyard - built by
the Indians who started the Foxwood casino. Very impressive bunch
of exhibits. Guess they have enough bucks to throw around. Didn't
get to see all of it; after 2 1/2 hours we got pretty worn out.
My father lives about a mile from Foxwood; he took us to the humungous
buffet they have there. Like many buffets, a wide variety of food,
but I'mafraid the quantity outweighs the quality. Dad took me around
the other casino, Mohegan Sun (unlike Foxwood, this was started
by Indians who actually lived in these parts.) He bought me some
much-needed drinking glasses from one of a whole bunch of stores
they have there. Liked the design of Mohegan Sun - a lot of woody
native-motif stuff. Sure it's kitsch, but at least it's well thought-out,
quality kitsch. Little by little, I'm learning more about outdoor
RV park cooking. Today I used the little grill Dad gave me to cook
dinner - a decent meal of roasted corn and stir-fried veggies. A
wok placed directly on the coals gets good and hot for the process.
Must learn to use fewer dishes and utensils as we may have to conserve
water sometimes. Use aluminum foil to hold ingredients when possible.
TaoUrso just showed me the pictures he took of me w/his digital
camera. The scenery is nice, but I don't look so great. Too fat!
Tomorrow we leave Highland Orchards, head back to Windsor Locks.
Long View tells us the tow-dolly has arrived. Hope to get all repairs
done Monday.
July 19 -- At Lake Village camp in Andover, Ohio. Nice woody surroundings,
which means no satellite. The phones aren't doing so well either;
TaoUrso can't get his cell-phone online system to work. Saw the
Rock and Roll Hall of Fame today in Cleveland, about 70 miles from
here. It's my second visit to the place, and I've written about
it before [in my diary, 1996] so I don't have too much to add. No,
I did not see the John Lennon exhibit. I did spot the room where
they had manuscripts of song lyrics on display. Among them was one
of my favorite songs, "American Tune" by Paul Simon. I
noted one line, "We can't be forever blessed" - not "We
can be ..." which is how I thought it went. I was pleasantly
surprised, in a twisted way. Disappointing to find that the museum
cafe no longer contains "The Wall" exhibit. But to go
back a bit - this was a busy week. Repairs are finally complete,
and we left Long View RV early Tuesday [7/16]. Good riddance! From
Connecticut we drove to Parish, New York, about 20 miles north of
Syracuse, and stayed there a couple days. Despite our efforts, we
never got the RV quite level, so my world was on a slight incline
during our stay. It was a long drive from there to this camp, but
of course we made it. Last couple days, the battery in the engine
has not been working well. TaoUrso thinks it was never fixed properly.
So we bought a charger this morning, hope that helps.
July 21 -- Saw the Great Lakes Science Center in Cleveland today
- TaoUrso said he'd been wanting to see it since he found it under
construction six years ago. Don't think he was impressed. He said
the science museum in Philadelphia was better; I reminded him that
a lot of their stuff was falling apart, just like it was at this
one. Had fun putting up the arch, though I see you really need more
than two people for the job. One thing I want to see in my travels
is whether everyone is so keen on flying the U.S. flag (in all its
variations) as they were in New York City. Bet yer ass, if Andover
is any indication. Every other telephone pole you saw had a flag
on it, to say nothing of the buildings.
July 28 -- Staying at Glenwood RV resort in Marseilles, Illinois,
near Chicago. Expect to leave Thursday, August 1. Been a week full
of ups and downs. Last Tuesday [7/23] was the worst. Traveled from
Andover across Ohio to a camp just short of the Indiana state line.
TaoUrso and I nearly killed each other getting the tow-dolly hitched
to the RV, with the car mounted on it. (Lesson: Hitch the dolly
to the RV first.) Then just outside Cleveland, the engine started
backfiring. Fortunately, TaoUrso found an RV service place nearby
that installed a new gas filter, and we were off again. When we
got to the camp, it took forever to line up the RV for electric
hookup - TaoUrso was really irritated. Finally, we drove to nearby
Decatur, Indiana for dinner. TaoUrso got a speeding ticket on the
way down. (He says he'd still rather get a ticket in Ohio than teach
high school in NYC.) That evening, I called Dish Network to activate
the new receiver we got in Cleveland, only to learn that the identification
number belonged to another customer and they wouldn't do it. Frustrating
day all around! Spent the next two days shuttling the RV back and
forth to Decatur for repairs. Got a new battery, new starter, and
some other things. Also found a place that sold Dish receivers and
bought a new one - but it wouldn't pick up the satellite signal.
Thursday [7/25] was sad, because I thought Onyx had run off. Imagine
my relief when I went back inside that afternoon. His litter-box
was a mess, but I was never so happy to see that poo! (By the way,
his diarrhea unfortunately has not subsided, and he hates to take
his pills.) Friday came and I was happy to hit the road again. This
camp is generally nice, with helpful friendly people. On the down
side, the water stinks of sulfur - okay for showers, but not drinking.
And TaoUrso, for whatever reason, can't get online from here. But
the big improvement Friday was how he'd figured out the trouble
with the second Dish receiver: a bad cable connection. We bought
new cables, and the whole thing worked. Woo-Hoo! Now we each have
our own TV. This tin can on wheels is feeling more like home than
ever. We've spent the weekend relaxing and plotting the next course.
Thursday morning we head for Wisconsin, and the Green Spirit Festival
(including Lugnasadh sabbat) at Circle Sanctuary. I'm looking forward
to hanging with my own kind for a couple days. A reminder that this
is not NYC: I've been searching for tahini to make humus for Circle's
potluck - but I can't find it anywhere! Will have to re-think my
food offering. Been driving around the local highways a lot. I swear
I've never seen so much corn growing in my life! Just acres and
acres of it wherever you go. Also a lot of those patriotic "God
Bless America" signs.
August 2 -- At Circle Sanctuary near Mount Horeb, Wisconsin -
waiting for dinner. Right now, I'm feeling kinda bad about losing
one of our cell phones. Don't know what happened, maybe it fell
out of the car. So far, little luck re the RV repairs. A mechanic
in Illinois yesterday told us we need a master cylinder for the
engine, and a tune-up as well. Plan to take the RV to a service
center Tuesday. Also there's a leak under the RV that TaoUrso may
or may not have caused when he loosened the tow-dolly before unhooking
the car. The dolly jerked back and smashed a hole in the body. I
made a mess dumping our sewer back when we left Illinois. I tripped,
and the "black water" spilled all over the ground. Felt
some grim amusement at how much corn I found in the black water.
At Circle today, I left a rose quartz in the stone circle, one of
those we'd bought in South Dakota years ago. After that, some of
us stayed and learned a Sacred Energy dance - a lot of chi-gong
based stuff. Yes, I felt some energy rise, but also felt terribly
out-of-shape and uncoordinated. Selena Fox gave TaoUrso and me a
tour of Circle. In twenty years, she has really developed the place;
I had no idea how big it is. A lot of outdoor shrines, herb gardens,
buildings, etc. Still very rustic, though: no toilets, only port-a-potties.
One building has a little Bast altar set-up. I sat down near it
to rest, and a cat walked by. She sounded so much like Marbles that
I started to cry.{Marbles lived with us seven years before we had
her put down in 1997, due to serious illness. - KD} But one of the
staffers helped cheer me up.
August 3 -- Circle Sanctuary again. Last night's welcoming ritual
was fun - a lot of drums, dancing and assorted percussion stuff
at the beginning. I have never seen so many white people in one
place trying to keep the beat. This morning I harvested mugwort
w/others at Circle. Put a bag of new mugwort in the car - emptied
the old bag Selena gave us in 1990; returned the old herbs back
to the mugwort patch. Left Circle for a few hours this afternoon.
Visited an exhibit called "Little Norway". Learned only
one memorable thing while touring it: In the song "Pop Goes
the Weasel", a weasel is the take-up reel on a yarn spinner.
When a designated number of skeins are wound up, a trigger mechanism
makes a "pop" noise.
August 6 -- Wow, a lot has happened in the last couple days. It's
our last day in Wisconsin. Tomorrow we head for South Dakota, plan
to stop somewhere in Minnesota that night. Discovered Wisconsin
Dells - a large tourist town built around a rock formation. FYI,
a dell is many layers of sedimentary rock eroded into different
shapes by water (in this case, the Wisconsin River.) Same principle
as the Grand Canyon, except I actually got to travel thru this thing.
For the record, the Upper Dells is a lot more fun to tour than the
lower (Wisconsin WWII Ducks notwithstanding.) The Lost Canyon wagon
ride was a hoot as well. Went panning for crystals thru mud (seeded,
no doubt) and TaoUrso found a blue topaz I'm going to have set in
a ring. Saw Wisconsin Deer petting zoo today. Nice walk, but I think
most of the deer were scared of me, even when I offered food. Got
repairs done on the RV yesterday. Mainly the master cylinder and
new A/C blower for engine. TaoUrso says it's all running real nice
now.
Must talk about Saturday night's Lammas ritual [8/3]. Super! There
was a big bonfire, which I threw an oak branch into, wishing mainly
for better health. After one guy sang the old "John Barleycorn"
song, TaoUrso asked me to get him up front for a Kaddish. Thought
Selena was real nice to let him do it. He sounded very well; I went
along with him but he couldn't hear me. There was also a prosperity
invocation using firework sparklers. A lot of sparks followed by
impenetrable smoke, which soon blew away.
Yes, I did find tahini and made humus. Also made corn bread, which
I know at least one person ate. Of course there was the usual singing,
drumming and chanting. Feh.
This weekend I was reminded of how "conventional" some
Pagans are. A lot of them look like they walked in from the nearest
Ren-Faire, and seem just as superficial. Guess they're the Pagan
equivalent of all those nice ladies who bake cakes for the church
bazaar. (Ah, but how much better am I, especially these days?) TaoUrso
copied a photo of Marbles, and I remembered to leave it at the cat
altar Sunday before we left.
Must keep in mind that the concept of doing someone else's laundry
for hire, remains unknown to many people. Searched all over the
area Monday for a laundry service, but none to be found. I ended
up doing it myself. Then we found Grandpa Meister's in Muscoda and
bought a lot of cheese. Yesterday we discovered Wollersheim Winery
in Prairie de Sac (?) and bought three cases. Gotta drink something
with all that cheese! ;^) Oh, yes - somebody found the cell phone!
A guy from Indiana called us (the number was on back of the phone),
said he found it near Route 20 the other day while jogging. TaoUrso
told him to mail it back to our Florida address. Seems the universe
is looking out for us somehow.
August 14 -- Custer-Crazy Horse RV Park, Custer, South Dakota.
(Why they would name an RV park, let alone a town, after him is
beyond me.) Today we brought the car and the motor home to D&F
Electrical Services in Rapid City. They did some work on the car
alternator (brand new, remember?) and fixed wires on the RV to get
the signals and brake lights working. TaoUrso asked the men there
about the Onan generator, which would shut down whenever he ran
his oxygen machine. They couldn't help, but directed us to an Onan
service place just up the road. What luck! And their man took care
of it right away. Speaking of luck: TaoUrso took a wrong turn somewhere
today, but found the podiatrist he was looking for.
A lot of moving around since I last wrote. A lot of mishaps and
fixing-ups. Trouble started last Thursday [8/8] at the KOA in Rochester,
Minnesota. As TaoUrso made a turn, he ran the RV over a boulder,
wrecking one of the storage hatches and jamming the front step.
(Why do campgrounds put big rocks like that around? They may think
it looks pretty, but to me they're nothing but obstacles.) TaoUrso
got the step working. Over the next couple days, we hammered out
the hatch and fixed it with silicone, new locks and some off-color
brownpaint. Stayed in Sioux Falls, South Dakota the next two nights.
Entered the Plains Zoo, stayed briefly until TaoUrso learned there
is actually a waterfall in Sioux Falls. So we went there instead.
(He has a general aversion to looking at captive animals.) I found
the falls attractive, but strange to see in the middle of a city
park. Another park in Sioux Falls contains a Japanese garden. Not
bad, though I've been spoiled - seen better ones in Brooklyn and
San Francisco. From Sioux Falls we drove to Chamberlain, where I
ate my first buffalo burger of the trip. There would be more. That's
where we found St. Joseph Indian School, with adjoining museum.
TaoUrso was not impressed with the size of it - too big to need
our money, he thought - till he read the sign saying they get no
state or federal dollars. Guess that changed his mind. Then Monday
[8/12] we drove to Wall, home of the (in)famous WALL DRUG store/emporium/overall
tourist trap. You see billboards advertising Wall Drug for hundreds
of miles before getting there. The town itself is small - fewer
than a thousand - and my bet is most of them work at Wall Drug or
some motel or service place nearby. Bought a couple of t-shirts
and some jewelry. Ate a buffalo steak: lean, and slightly tough.
While in Wall, we drove thru the Badlands, which don't look so bad
when you see them from a car. Unfortunately, TaoUrso and I are too
heavy for the helicopter ride over them. Found a Prairie Dog town
in the Badlands, but the rainy weather must have kept them all underground.
Yesterday, we drove to Rapid City and stayed at a Jellystone Park
camp. (All campers should spend one night with Yogi & Co., just
for the kitschy family experience.) Once we were settled, I spotted
a new crisis: the hanger of the muffler had broken, and the muffler
had been dragging on the ground. It took a serious effort from TaoUrso
and me (mostly him) but we managed to get it off the ground, and
tied to the chassis with wire coat hangers (which I'll think twice
about throwing away from now on!) After making a few calls, TaoUrso
found Exhaust Pros in Rapid City. They put in new hangers and new
exhaust pipes, which were also sadly needed. So little by little,
we're getting the RV in shape.
A few random thoughts: This being South Dakota in August, there
are more bikers around than you can shake a tailpipe at (the Sturgis
thing, y'know.) You gotta wonder, who are the real bikers, and who
are just, well ... Guess we're out of the heartland now. Have seen
no corn in the last couple days. Been weeks since I've seen a yarmulke
or a synagogue anywhere. I'm beginning to understand why so many
Jews vacation in the same places (Catskills, or Miami) - a lot of
other spots just are not accommodating. Rapid City and other towns
in South Dakota have a lot of the same merchandise - Western gear
stores, "Black Hills gold" outlets, rock shops, Indian
stuff, etc. Also, it looks like gambling was legalized since I was
here last. Every mile or so you see what I can only call "convenience
casinos" - little gaming shops next to the gas stations and
kwik-marts.
August 19 -- Last day in Custer. Tomorrow we head toward Denver,
stopping one night in Cheyenne, Wyoming. Just one bit of fun after
another, it seems. Friday [8/16] we got a bad letter from the Teachers'
Retirement System. It was a complicated matter, but it basically
said TaoUrso had only 18 years of service and was not qualified
for a pension. Of course that's not true; TaoUrso had bought back
quite a few years on top of that. (To make things worse, the stupid-ass
clerk in the camp office had been holding our mail a couple days
already without realizing it. So we could have fixed this before
the weekend and didn't.) This morning TaoUrso got on the phone with
TRS and the teachers' union rep who handles pension stuff. As I
understand it, TRS had not picked up his buy-back time when he switched
from one tier up to a better-paying one. Like I said, it's complicated
shit. We faxed the pension forms to the union guy and UPS'ed them
to TRS. TaoUrso called this afternoon, says the UFT rep already
started the inquiry. So it'll be a month or two, but he is confident
the pension checks will start coming in. Meanwhile, we're definitely
not starving. (TaoUrso: "This is why nobody wants to work for
the [NYC] Board of Ed.") We tested our self-sufficiency last
week. A pipe broke, and there was no water coming in thru the camp
lines. Fortunately, we got some water for our tank, and bought a
long-neck funnel to pour it in. Yesterday we ran the Onan for a
couple hours as well. August 15, we had a really great car tour
of the area. Saw Crazy Horse Mountain, which has come along quite
a bit since I was last here [in 1990.] He has a real face now, and
work has started on the horse. Be nice to come back every ten years
and see what's going on. But the statue likely won't be finished
in my lifetime, never mind TaoUrso's. While the Crazy Horse statue
stirred some strong feelings in me, I can't say the same for Mount
Rushmore (that's why I have no souvenirs from it.)I admire it as
a work of engineering - maybe even art - but the sculpture has become
so cliched and parodied over the years, that whatever meaning it
might have had just dried up and blew away. By the way, we came
in to Mt. Rushmore just after President Bush had left it that day.
Don't think I missed all that much. It was nice to drive thru the
Black Hills and see the forests and animals. Got pretty close to
some live bison, but not too close, right? Quite a few trees were
burned down, and Bruce our guide (who was very good) reminded us
how forest fires are a real danger around here. We were reminded
of that again Sunday when we drove to nearby Keystone. The smoke
from a big fire was as thick as fog around the car, but smelled
worse. (Speaking of reminders: Don't expect to find an open drug
store on Sunday, not in this neck of the woods.) After twelve years,
I finally got close to a prairie dog or two. We stopped at one of
their "towns" along the tour. I'm sure TaoUrso got a laugh
watching me out there. Friday we went to Deadwood, which I was looking
forward to seeing, but was disappointed. I was expecting some kind
of historic reconstruction, like in Williamsburg. Instead it's just
another tourist spot with a casino on every block. So we toured
the adjoining burg, Lead (leed), an old gold-mining town whose mine
is gradually closing up. Here's what I learned there: A block ofgold
bullion is 99.99% pure gold; the remaining .01% is a secret alloy
that identifies where it came from. Drove to Bear Country after
that. Enjoyed seeing the bears and other critters walking around
the car. TaoUrso prefers this to an actual zoo. I can see his point.
One more random observation: Since we started traveling west, I've
noticed that two kinds of radio music predominate the airwaves -
country, and old "classic rock" stuff. I have mixed feelings
about oldies stations. On one hand, I'm flattered to think people
still love the music I grew up with. On the other, it seems to suggest
that no newer music is any good, which is not necessarily the case.
Classic rock format is the sound of people who have given up on
music. About country music, I am qualified to say absolutely nothing.
August 22 - Kampground of America, Hudson, Colorado, near Denver.
Today was a minor milestone: We took Onyx to the Alameda East Veterinary
Hospital, where Animal Planet cable network tapes its Emergency
Vets show. Onyx was treated by Dr. McLucas (not one of those on
TV) who took his blood for thyroid testing. She suggested buying
a pill dispenser to avoid injuries. I bought one later, and it appears
to work well. Ran into a couple of E-Vets in the lobby, a most busy
area. Said hello to Dr. Fitzgerald, who was taking care of a lady's
pet turtle. (TaoUrso: "Shall I bow to the great turtle healer?!")
Saw Dr. Taylor talking to another staffer in a not-too-nice way,
chose to keep my distance. Got a few scratches from Onyx this morning,
trying to get him to the car
Continued....
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